WEEKEND UPDATE -(Sorry it has taken so long, but as you will see I spent sometime on it. This only covers Sat night - The rest is a completely different story)
A great novel starts “It was the best of times, it was the worst of times…” it is considered such an incredible opening line because in an apparent oxymoron it captures the celebration and frustration of an ambiguous time. Tonight I understood what that meant.
You may be thinking that, that is quite an impressive setup, and that this is going to be quite an impressive entry for my internet log. Well can I just temper that by saying that this is actually being written at four O’clock in the morning, and that I am trying desperately to remain coherent, but as U2 sings in my ear, there is “nothing left to lose,”
May I start at the end. As it is probably the most confusing place to start and why spoil a perfect evening? And also it is most fresh in my memory (it happened just minutes ago).
John and I, even in our amplified state, scaled a security fence by complete stealth( yeah right) As our feet momentarily touched the ground beyond the fence, John rushed off to, scout around the west side of the building to check for unlocked doors/windows. I took one step forward and noticed that the first window was open and unlocked. As John came rushing back with a worried look on his face I quickly did the SAS style hand signal to indicate that the left full size window was unlocked and that I had already checked that we could open it further (looks like the hitchhiker signal in NZ). We had already gone over the various possible scenarios and so both knew that that room should be empty. We started to open the window carefully, so as to avoid detection.
“WHO IS THAT, AND WHAT ARE YOU DOING!!!!!!” Johns sister (who was supposed to be at a house party somewhere) ended up letting us in (after she had recovered from a heart attack(I’m not surprised, I scare myself sometimes)).
Actually I now believe that Tony Robbins is the patron saint of going out for a night on the town in Manly. Firstly, everyone starts by talking about how incredibly great it is. Then once you are actually there you need to believe in yourself more than the mirror will usually allow, because it is one of the hangouts for the ‘beautiful people’ of Sydney, and lastly you will pay a lot of money ($17 door charge!) for something that you will ultimately look back on and say “I didn’t really need to go to all that trouble, I could have got that much easier/cheaper….”
This may all sound quite dramatic, but in fact Sydney has up to this point been an experience of extremes. From utter drudgery (waking, working, have dinner, sleep, repeat) to evenings that I feel compelled to document as vividly as possible on this page.
To understand our Manly experience you must understand the motivations of our tour guide, Chris. A concern that I had, but didn’t act on, was that Chris was all too attached to an American girl that we had met the night before. Somehow the fact that she had a boyfriend ‘backhome’ had made her more appealing to Chris. This in itself, while reprehensible, should not have turned up as a warning on our radar, except for the fact that Sam (surprise! I did remember her name) had two friends who went everywhere with her. The plan that we should have seen forming in Chris’s head, was that John and I would act as wingmen, distracting the friends while Chris attempted the impossible (I thought it was anyway). A slight further complication was that Chris had broken the screen on his cellphone, so he could call out, but only if he knew the number, and if he missed your call, he would never know.
He spent the afternoon engineering; no it was more like shuffling (there was certainly no technical proficiency about it), the American girls and us in accordance with his slowly unfolding plan.
The fact that John and I were dead set on going to Manly, and that a top ‘undiscovered’ band was playing a gig there, are probably the only things that saved us.
We met Chris at the local bus stop, he had been traveling for 1.5 hours to get there. Once on the bus I could see that Manly was already living up to it’s reputation. The only person on that bus over 30, didn’t realize that they were over 30. I didn’t actually note how long the trip took, but it took us through terrain that would have proven the undoing of any New Zealand bus. On one particularly precarious winding incline, I gingerly asked if this was the main road to Manly. “Nah mate, the bus wouldn’t have made it up that.”
Although I haven’t yet mentioned it here, John and I have developed the rule of 4. If you need to get an idea of what something is like in Sydney, just think of the equivalent in Auckland and times it by 4. Here are a few examples.
Darling Harbour is four times cooler than the viaduct basin
The exchange rate, lack of quality and inflated prices make everything seem four times more expensive than Auckland
Public transport is four times more useful
Taxi drivers are four times more useless
And manly is four times more of a party place than Orewa.
This may seem like mockery through faint praise, I certainly have never associated Orewa with anything but old people. But there is a certain spiritual parallel between Manly and Orewa that is undeniable. Manly is the promise that, one day many years hence, something good could come out of Orewa.
At this point I will prioritize the details. I could go into great depth describing how the pedestrian boulevards thronged with young hip people dressed with a hint of beach style. I could also talk about how the traditional 80’s style pub is still a heavy influence on every single pub/bar and how only actually being in Sydney could let you believe that 27% of the worlds pokie machines are in NSW. But I just did, so lets skip to the good stuff.
Loydo, Chris’s friend drove the six of us along to the local fishermans club (called Fishios) in his holden. It wasn’t a squeeze. NSW has peculiar rules about drinking. There are many ‘clubs’ like fishermans clubs, boat clubs, sport clubs, where people go to drink. But you can only drink there if you’re a ‘member’. As long as you can say that you live outside a 3 mile radius of the club, you can become a member by signing a little card. If you live inside the radius, you are either smart enough to make up an address on the other side of Sydney or you go through an initiation style thing. It is a way to dodge a crazy law, everyone does it, everyone knows that it’s done but it’s still a ‘wink, wink’ style thing. Most clubs have very carefully worded ‘information’ cards on their walls to ‘help’ people when they are filling out their declaration cards. One club even had a map on the wall with a big ring to indicate the 3 mile radius (it was actually there so you could pick a good street and suburb to say you live in). It really is quite incredible. Remember back to the days when you weren’t quite old enough to get into bars, so there was always a little excitement trying to con your way in. This is the same experience, but this version can be enjoyed by everyone.
There was a $17 cover charge, but you were paying it for the band, not entry to the pub. John, who has a talent for cutting to the essence of something without the puffery that I usually throw in, summed up the venue as “shit”, the band was anything but.
iOTA (intentional capitalization) is the name of the lead singer and of the band. The lead singer cultivates a ben harper look with a little bit of the young Dave Grohl look from when he was the drummer for Nirvana. A description of their music is a little more illusive. To be honest none of their music was that memorable apart from the reaction it drew from the crowd. Being a three piece band they had a predictable rock sound that iOTA tempered with a heavily influenced Ben Harper style of singing and the lead guitar was always an acoustic. The music was the kind that you listen to on cd five times end to end and become a groupie. On first listening it sounded like background music. They lacked any really catchy distinctive songs to pull them into the big time, unlike those seasoned hits S.H.A.G. and Wayno by Millhouse. In fact the highlight for me was when they did a Janet Jackson cover. As I write it I realize what a strange idea it is for a fairly rocky band to cover Janet, but it just made perfect sense last night. With iOTA singing falsetto and shaking a tambourine while the drummer showed his prowess on the acoustic, they played their own very cool take on ‘Till it’s gone’. Look out for iOTA they have released two cd’s and two ep’s and if they can get away with charging $17 for gigs in run down pubs then their loyal fans will ensure they go places. Apparently they are signed with a local record label but they need a hit before we will all get to appreciate them.
At the next pub we sat in a little alcove upstairs and watched the goings on down stairs. Two girls sat behind us with black marks all over their face. We asked them about it and they told us the terrible tale of how they had lost too many rounds of a vicious drinking game called Iggle Biggle.
It is a variation on a traditional drinking game theme. Here is how it works.
Take 1 cork preferably from a sparkling wine bottle but it could be just from a wine bottle. Burn the end. Number people off around the group (1,2,3 etc) Now the game runs by each person saying a phrase.
e.g. “I Iggle biggle one with two iggle biggles call iggle biggle 5 with 12 iggle biggles”
Every time someone makes a mistake they have to drink a full vessel and they get an iggle biggle on their face, which is done by ‘stamping’ the iggle biggle stick on them. Play continues until you can’t fit anymore iggle biggles on someone’s face. Of course the game gets interesting when people can’t remember how many iggle biggles are on their own face etc… Ah yes, through all our differences and peculiarities there is always the international traditional of acting stupid while drinking.
During the whole evening we didn’t get a chance to stay anywhere long because Chris was so determined to try and get back to down town Sydney to meet the Americans. We didn’t. After waiting for an hour to get a bus (3 in the morning) we ended up going home. As neither of us had our keys (there was a valid reason for this, but I won’t go into it), we decided to try and find an unlocked door/window. You know how it is, after a few drinks you think of something like that and you’re usual rational decision making process is replaced with “I can do that!”
We scaled the wall and that takes us back to where all this started, some 2000 words ago.